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Essential
Architecture- United Kingdom
The Lake District |
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STEAMER_ON_ULLSWATER |
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Scafells |
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Lakeland_View |
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Lake_District_view_of_Boats_and_Hills |
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Lake_District_near_Torver |
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Forestry_on_Harter_Fell |
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Claife_Station |
Lake District
Geography
General Geography
The location of the Lake District, shown in white, within
Northern EnglandThe Lake District is about 34 miles (55 km) across
(north-to-south or west-to-east). Its features are a result of periods
of glaciation, the most recent of which ended some 15 000 years ago.
These include the ice-carved wide U-shaped valleys, many of which are
now filled with the lakes that give the park its name. The upper regions
contain a number of glacial cirques, which are typically filled with
tarns. The higher fells are rocky, with lower fells being open moorland,
notable for its wide bracken and heather coverage. Below the tree line
native oak woodlands sit alongside nineteenth century pine plantations.
Much of the land is often boggy, due to the high rainfall.
North-West
The north-western area stands between the valleys of
Borrowdale and Buttermere, with Honister Pass joining the two dales.
This area comprises the Newlands Fells (Dale Head, Robinson, Catbells)
and the ridge joining them. To the north stand Grasmoor, Grisedale Pike
and the hills around the valley of Coledale, and in the far north-west
is Thornthwaite Forest and Lord's Seat. The fells in this area are
rounded Skiddaw slate, with no tarns and few rock faces.
West
The western part is the area between Buttermere and
Wasdale, with Sty Head forming the apex of a large triangle. Ennerdale
bisects the area, which consists of the High Stile ridge north of
Ennerdale, the Loweswater Fells in the far north west, the Pillar group
in the south west, and Great Gable (2,949 ft) near Sty Head. Other tops
include Seatallan, Haystacks and Kirk Fell. This area is craggy and
steep, with the impressive pinnacle of Pillar Rock its showpiece.
Wastwater, located in this part, is England's deepest lake.
Central
The central part is the lowest in terms of elevation. It
takes the form of a long boot-shaped ridge running from Loughrigg Fell
above Ambleside - a popular tourist destination - to Keswick, with
Derwent Water on the west and Thirlmere on the east. The Langdale Pikes,
with High Raise behind them, are another feature popular with walkers.
The central ridge running north over High Seat is exceptionally boggy.
East
The eastern area consists of a long north-to-south ridge
- the Helvellyn range, running from Clough Head to Seat Sandal with the
3,118-foot Helvellyn at its highest point. The western slopes of these
summits tend to be grassy, with rocky corries and crags on the eastern
side. The Fairfield group lies to the south of the range, and forms a
similar pattern with towering rock faces and hidden valleys spilling
into the Patterdale valley. It culminates in the height of Red Screes
overlooking the Kirkstone Pass.
Far-East
The far-eastern fells lie on the other side of
Patterdale and are characterised by steep sides leading up to a huge
moorland plateau, again on a north–south axis. High Street is the
highest point on the ridge, overlooking the hidden valley of Mardale and
Haweswater. In the south of this region are the fells overlooking
Kentmere, and to the east is Shap Fell, a huge area that is more akin to
the Pennines than the Lakes, consisting of high flat moorland.
Mid-West
The mid-western fells form a triangular shape, with the
corners at the Irish Sea, Borrowdale and Langdale. They comprise the
Wastwater Screes overlooking Wasdale, the Glaramara ridge overlooking
Borrowdale, the three tops of Crinkle Crags, Bowfell and Esk Pike
overlooking Langdale and Scafell Pike in the centre, at 3,209 feet the
highest ground in England. Scafell one mile to the south-west is
slightly lower but has an 700-foot rock face on its north face, Scafell
Crag. The valley of Eskdale penetrates this upland wilderness. These
fells are the most rugged and craggy of all, and consequently going is
slower amongst the tumbled granite.
South-West
The south-western fells have as their northern boundary
the Hardknott and Wrynose Passes. These are particularly narrow and
steep, with tight hairpin bends. The Furness Fells stand between
Coniston and the Duddon Valley, which runs NE-SW through the centre of
the area. On the other side of the Duddon is Harter Fell and the long
ridge leading over Whitfell to Black Combe and the sea. The south of
this region consists of lower forests and knolls, with Kirkby Moor on
the southern boundary.
South-East
The south-eastern area is the territory between Coniston
Water and Windermere and east of Windermere. There are no high summits
in this group; it is mainly low hills, knolls and bumpy terrain such as
Gummer's How, Whitbarrow and Top o' Selside. The wide expanse of
Grizedale Forest stands between the two lakes. Kendal and Morecambe Bay
mark the edge.
25 highest fells
The 25 highest fells (of those given an individual
chapter in the Pictorial Guides by Alfred Wainwright) are:
Scafell Pike, 978 m / 3210 ft
Scafell, 965 m / 3162 ft
Helvellyn, 951 m / 3118 ft
Skiddaw, 931 m / 3054 ft
Great End, 910 m / 2986 ft
Bowfell, 902 m / 2960 ft
Great Gable, 899 m / 2949 ft
Pillar, 892 m / 2926 ft
Nethermost Pike, 891 m / 2923 ft
Catstycam, 889 m / 2917 ft
Esk Pike, 885 m / 2903 ft
Raise (Lake District), 883 m / 2896 ft
Fairfield, 873 m / 2863 ft
Blencathra, 868 m / 2847 ft
Skiddaw Little Man, 865 m / 2837 ft
White Side, 863 m / 2831 ft
Crinkle Crags, 859 m / 2818 ft
Dollywaggon Pike, 858 m / 2815 ft
Great Dodd, 857 m / 2807 ft
Grasmoor, 852 m / 2795 ft
Stybarrow Dodd, 843 m / 2772 ft
St Sunday Crag, 841 m / 2759 ft
Scoat Fell, 841 m / 2759 ft
Crag Hill, 839 m / 2753 ft
High Street, 828 m / 2717 ft
Lakes
Boats on UllswaterDespite its name, there is only one body of
water in the park with the word 'Lake' in its name, namely Bassenthwaite
Lake. All the others such as Windermere, Coniston Water, Ullswater and
Buttermere use other forms, with 'mere' being particularly common. The
major lakes and reservoirs in the park are given below.
The word 'tarn' is a local word used to describe any small lake
that may otherwise be called a pond.
Bassenthwaite Lake
Buttermere
Coniston Water
Crummock Water
Derwent Water
Devoke Water
Ennerdale Water
Grasmere
Haweswater Reservoir
Hayeswater
Loweswater
Rydal Water
Thirlmere
Ullswater
Wast Water
Windermere
Geology
The Lake District's geology is complex but well studied.
Its oldest rocks are the Skiddaw Slate series and the Borrowdale
Volcanic series dating back to the Ordovician, some 500 million years
ago. The Skiddaw Slates are found in the north of the park and were
probably deposited in shallow seas; their thickness is unknown. The
Borrowdale Volcanic rocks are more extensive and form the Lakes' highest
peaks, being resistant to weathering. Later intrusions have formed
individual outcrops of igneous rock in both these series. The other
large rock group is the Silurian Windermere Group, made of Limestone
that rests upon the volcanic rocks. Many smaller series are also
present.
Climate
The Lake District's location on the north-west coast of
England, coupled with its mountainous geography, makes it the wettest
part of England. The UK Met Office reports average annual precipitation
of more than 2,000 mm, but with very large local variation. Lake
District has relief rainfall. Seathwaite in Borrowdale is the wettest
inhabited place in the British Isles with an average of 3,300 mm of rain
a year, while nearby Sprinkling Tarn is even wetter, recording over
5,000 mm per year; by contrast, Keswick, at the end of Borrowdale
receives 1,470 mm per year, and Penrith (just outside the Lake District)
only 870 mm. March to June tend to be the driest months, with October to
January the wettest, but at low levels there is relatively little
difference between months.
The Lake District is also windy, although sheltered valleys
experience gales on an average of five days a year. In contrast, the
coastal areas have 20 days of gales; while the fell tops may have 100
days of gales per year.
The maritime climate means that the Lake District experiences
relatively moderate temperature variations through the year. Mean
temperature in the valleys ranges from about 3 °C in January to around
15 °C in July. (By comparison, Moscow, at the same latitude, ranges from
-10°C to 19°C.)
The relatively low height of most of the fells means that, while
snow is expected during the winter, they can be free of snow at any time
of the year. Normally, significant snow fall only occurs between
November and April. On average, snow falls on Helvellyn 67 days per
year. During the year, valleys typically experience 20 days with snow
falling, a further 200 wet days, and 145 dry days.
Hill fog is common at any time of year, and the fells average
only around 2.5 hours of sunshine per day, increasing to around 4.1
hours per day on the coastal plains.
Wildlife
The area is home to a plethora of wildlife, some of
which is unique in England. It provides a home for the red squirrel and
colonies of sundew, one of the few carnivorous plants native to Britain.
England's only nesting pair of Golden Eagles can be found in the Lake
District.
The lakes of the Lake District support three rare and endangered
species of fish: the vendace, which can be found only in Bassenthwaite
Lake and Derwent Water, the schelly, which lives in Brothers Water,
Haweswater, Red Tarn and Ullswater, and the arctic charr, which can be
found in Buttermere, Coniston Water, Crummock Water, Ennerdale Water,
Haweswater, Loweswater, Thirlmere, Wast water, and Windermere.
In recent years, some important changes have been made to
fisheries byelaws covering the north-west region of England, to help
protect some of the rarest fish species. The Environment Agency has
introduced a new fisheries byelaw, banning the use of all freshwater
fish as live bait or as dead bait in 14 of the lakes in the Lake
District. Anglers who do not comply with the new byelaw could face fines
of up to £2,500. The byelaw was introduced on 26 July 2002.
There are 14 lakes in the Lake District which are affected. These
are: Bassenthwaite Lake, Brothers Water, Buttermere, Coniston Water,
Crummock Water, Derwent Water, Ennerdale Water, Haweswater, Loweswater,
Red Tarn, Thirlmere, Ullswater, Wast Water and Windermere.
The lakes and waters of the Lake District do not naturally
support as many species of fish as other similar habitats in the south
of the country and elsewhere in Europe. Some fish that do thrive there
are particularly at risk from accidental or deliberate introduction of
new species.
The introduction of non-native fish can lead to the predation of
the native fish fauna or competition for food. There is also the risk of
disease being introduced, which can further threaten native populations.
In some cases, the introduced species can disturb the environment so
much that it becomes unsuitable for particular fish. For example, a
major problem has been found with ruffe. This non-native fish has now
been introduced into a number of lakes in recent years. It is known that
ruffe eat the eggs of vendace, which are particularly vulnerable because
of their long incubation period. This means that they are susceptible to
predators for up to 120 days. The eggs of other fish, for example roach,
are only at risk for as little as three days.
Industry and agriculture
Forestry operations on Harter FellIn Neolithic times, the Lake
District was a major source of stone axes, examples of which have been
found all over Britain. The primary site, on the slopes of the Langdale
Pikes, is sometimes described as a 'stone axe factory' of the Langdale
axe industry. Some of the earliest stone circles in Britain are
connected with this industry.
Since Roman times, farming, in particular of sheep, was the major
industry in the region. The breed most closely associated with the area
is the tough Herdwick, with Rough Fell and Swaledale sheep also common.
Sheep farming remains important both for the economy of the region and
for preserving the landscape which visitors want to see. Features such
as dry stone walls, for example, are there as a result of sheep farming.
Some land is also used for silage and dairy farming. There are extensive
plantations of non-native pine trees.
The area was badly affected by the foot-and-mouth outbreak across
the United Kingdom in 2001. Thousands of sheep, grazing on the fellsides
across the District, were destroyed. In replacing the sheep, one problem
to overcome was that many of the lost sheep were heafed, that is, they
knew their part of the unfenced fell and did not stray, with this
knowledge being passed between generations. With all the sheep lost at
once, this knowledge has to be re-learnt and some of the fells have had
discreet electric fences strung across them for a period of five years,
to allow the sheep to "re-heaf".
Mining, particularly of copper, lead (often associated with
quantities of silver), baryte, graphite and slate, was historically a
major lakeland industry, mainly from the 16th century to the 19th
century. Coppiced woodland was used extensively to provide charcoal for
smelting. Some mining still takes place today — for example slate mining
continues at the Honister Mines, at the top of Honister Pass. Abandoned
mine-workings can be found on fell-sides throughout the district. The
locally-mined graphite led to the development of the pencil industry,
especially around Keswick.
A 'typical Lake District scene'In the middle of the 19th century,
half the world textile industry's bobbin supply came from the Lake
District area. Over the past century, however, tourism has grown rapidly
to become the area's primary source of income.
Development of tourism
Early visitors to the Lake District, who travelled for
the education and pleasure of the journey, include Celia Fiennes who in
1698 undertook a journey the length of England, including riding through
Kendal and over Kirkstone Pass into Patterdale. Her experiences and
impressions were published in her book Great Journey to Newcastle and
Cornwall:
As I walked down at this place I was walled on both sides by
those inaccessible high rocky barren hills which hang over one’s head in
some places and appear very terrible; and from them springs many little
currents of water from the sides and clefts which trickle down to some
lower part where it runs swiftly over the stones and shelves in the way,
which makes a pleasant rush and murmuring noise and like a snowball is
increased by each spring trickling down on either side of those hills,
and so descends into the bottoms which are a Moorish ground in which in
many places the waters stand, and so form some of those Lakes as it did
here.
In 1724, Daniel Defoe published the first volume of A Tour Thro'
the Whole Island of Great Britain. He commented on Westmorland that it
was:
the wildest, most barren and frightful of any that I have passed
over in England, or even Wales itself; the west side, which borders on
Cumberland, is indeed bounded by a chain of almost unpassable mountains
which, in the language of the country, are called fells.
Towards the end of the 18th century, the area was becoming more
popular with travellers. This was partly a result of wars in Continental
Europe, restricting the possibility of travel there. In 1778 Father
Thomas West produced A Guide to the Lakes, which began the era of modern
tourism.
West listed "stations" - viewpoints where tourists could enjoy
the best views of the landscape, being encouraged to appreciated the
formal qualities of the landscape and to apply aesthetic values. At some
of these stations, buildings were erected to help this process. The
remains of Claife Station (on the western shore of Windermere below
Claife Heights) can be visited today.
William Wordsworth published his Guide to the Lakes in 1810, and
by 1835 it had reached its fifth edition, now called A Guide through the
District of the Lakes in the North of England. This book was
particularly influential in popularising the region. Wordsworth's
favourite valley was Dunnerdale or the Duddon Valley nestling in the
south-west of the Lake District.
The railways led to another expansion in tourism. The Kendal and
Windermere Railway was the first to penetrate the Lake District,
reaching Kendal in 1846 and Windermere in 1847. The line to Coniston
opened in 1848 (although until 1857 this was only linked to the national
network with ferries between Fleetwood and Barrow-in-Furness); the line
from Penrith through Keswick to Cockermouth in 1865; and the line to
Lakeside at the foot of Windermere in 1869. The railways, built with
traditional industry in mind, brought with them a huge increase in the
number of visitors, thus contributing to the growth of the tourism
industry. Railway services were supplemented by steamer boats on the
major lakes of Ullswater, Windermere, Coniston Water, and Derwent Water.
The growth in tourist numbers continued into the age of the motor
car, when railways began to be closed or run down. The formation of the
National Park in 1951 recognised the need to protect the Lake District
environment from excessive commercial or industrial exploitation,
preserving that which visitors come to see, without (so far) any
restriction on the movement of people into and around the district. The
M6 Motorway helped bring traffic to the Lakes, passing up its eastern
flank. The narrow roads present a challenge for traffic flow and, from
the 1960s, certain areas have been very congested.
Whilst the roads and railways provided easier access to the area,
many people were drawn to the Lakes by the publication of the Pictorial
Guide to the Lakeland Fells by Alfred Wainwright. First published in the
1950s, these books provided detailed information on 214 peaks across the
region, with carefully hand-drawn maps and panoramas, and also stories
and asides which add to the colour of the area. They are still used by
many visitors to the area as guides for walking excursions, with the
ultimate goal of bagging the complete list of Wainwrights.
The area has also become associated with writer Beatrix Potter. A
number of tourists visit to see her family home, with particularly large
numbers coming from Japan.
Tourism has now become the park's major industry, with about 14
million visitors each year.[1]. Windermere Lake Steamers are now the
UK's second most popular charging tourist attraction and the local
economy is dependent upon tourists. The negative impact of tourism has
been seen, however. Soil erosion, caused by walking, is now a
significant problem, with millions of pounds being spent to protect
over-used paths. The fickleness of tourism is also a problem - numbers
have fallen in the Windermere area with the introduction of a ten miles
per hour speed limit on the lake. In 2006, a number of Tourist
Information Centres in the park were closed.
Literature
The Lake District is intimately associated with English
literature in the 18th and 19th centuries. Thomas Gray was the first to
bring the region to attention, when he wrote a journal of his Grand Tour
in 1769, but it was William Wordsworth whose poems were most famous and
influential. Wordsworth's poem I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud, inspired by
the sight of daffodils on the shores of Ullswater, remains one of the
most famous in the English language. Out of his long life of eighty
years, sixty were spent amid its lakes and mountains, first as a
schoolboy at Hawkshead, and afterwards living in Grasmere (1799-1813)
and Rydal Mount (1813-50).
The poet and his wife lie buried in the churchyard of Grasmere
and very near to them are the remains of Hartley Coleridge (son of the
poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge), who himself lived for many years in
Keswick, Ambleside and Grasmere. Robert Southey, the Poet Laureate and
friend of Wordsworth, was a resident of Keswick for forty years
(1803-43), and was buried in Crosthwaite churchyard. Samuel Taylor
Coleridge lived for some time in Keswick, and also with the Wordsworths
at Grasmere. From 1807 to 1815 John Wilson lived at Windermere. De
Quincey spent the greater part of the years 1809 to 1828 at Grasmere, in
the first cottage which Wordsworth had inhabited. Ambleside, or its
environs, was also the place of residence both of Thomas Arnold, who
spent there the vacations of the last ten years of his life and of
Harriet Martineau, who built herself a house there in 1845. At Keswick,
Mrs Lynn Linton (wife of William James Linton) was born, in 1822.
Brantwood, a house beside Coniston Water, was the home of John Ruskin
during the last years of his life.
In addition to these residents or natives of the Lake District, a
variety of other poets and writers made visits to the Lake District or
were bound by ties of friendship with those already mentioned above.
These include Percy Bysshe Shelley, Sir Walter Scott, Nathaniel
Hawthorne, Arthur Hugh Clough, Henry Crabb Robinson, Thomas Carlyle,
John Keats, Lord Tennyson, Matthew Arnold, Felicia Hemans, and Gerald
Massey.
During the early 20th century, the children's author Beatrix
Potter was in residence at Hill Top Farm, setting many of her famous
Peter Rabbit books in the Lake District. Her life was made into a biopic
film, starring Renée Zellweger and Ewan McGregor. Arthur Ransome lived
in several areas of the Lake District, and set a number of his Swallows
and Amazons books, published between 1930 and 1947, in a fictionalised
Lake District setting.
The novelist Sir Hugh Walpole lived at Brackenburn on the lower
slopes of Catbells overlooking Derwent Water from 1924 until his death
in 1941. Whilst living at Brackenburn he wrote The Herries Chronicle
detailing the history of a fictional Cumbrian Family over two centuries.
The noted author and poet Norman Nicholson came from the south-west
Lakes, living and writing about Millom in the twentieth century - he was
known as the last of the Lake Poets and came close to becoming the Poet
Laureate.
Some students of Arthurian lore identify the Lake District with
the Grail kingdom of Listeneise.
Nomenclature
A number of words/phrases are local to the Lake District
and are part of the Cumbrian dialect. These include:
fell - brought to England by Viking invaders and close to modern
Norwegian 'Fjell' meaning mountain
tarn - a word that has been taken to mean a small lake situated
in a corrie, it is a local phrase for any small pool of water
Yan Tan Tethera - the name for a system of sheep counting which
was traditionally used in the Lake District. Though now rare, it is
still used by some and taught in local schools.
Photographs of the area
http://www.thelakedistrictmountains.org/
http://www.lakedistrictdesktops.com/
http://www.bbc.co.uk/cumbria/in_pictures/index.shtml
http://www.lakelandscape.co.uk/gallery.htm
http://www.stridingedge.net/ A photo diary of walks in the
Lake District fells.
http://www.photoboxgallery.com/srsteel
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