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Essential
Architecture- London St. Nicholas Cole Abbey
(Presbyterian) |
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architect
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Sir Christopher Wren |
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location
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Queen Victoria Street. |
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date
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1671 to 1681 |
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style
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late English Renaissance
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construction
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masonry |
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type
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Church |
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St. Nicholas Cole Abbey is a church in the City of London located on what
is now Queen Victoria Street. Recorded from the twelfth century, the
church was destroyed in the Great Fire of London in 1666 and rebuilt by
the office of Sir Christopher Wren. The church suffered substantial bomb
damage during the Second World War and was reconstructed by Arthur
Bailey in 1961-2.
History
The church is named after the 4th century St Nicholas of
Myra. “Cole Abbey” is derived from “coldharbour” a medieval word for a
traveller’s shelter or shelter from the cold.
The earliest reference to the church is in a letter of Pope
Lucius II in 1144-5.
St Nicholas of Myra is patron saint of, among other groups,
children and fishermen, and the church has special ties with both. An
inventory of the church’s possessions taken at the time of the
Reformation includes vestments for children, suggesting that the church
maintained the tradition of electing a boy bishop on St Nicholas Day.
Deeds in the reign of Richard I refer to a new fish market near St.
Nicholas Cole Abbey. In a Charter of 1272, the church is referred to as
‘St Nick’s behind Fish Street’. During the 16th century, several
fishmongers were buried here and John Stow records that during the reign
of Elizabeth I, a lead and stone cistern, fed by the Thames, was set up
against the north wall ‘for the care and commodity of the Fishmongers in
and about Old Fish Street’.
As with all English churches, St. Nicholas Cole Abbey was obliged
to conform to Protestant ritual during the Reformation. Upon the
accession of Mary I, it was the first church to celebrate Mass (on
August 23, 1553), with contemporary diarist Henry Machyn recording ‘Mass
at St. Nicholas Cole Abbey goodly sung in Latin, tapers set on the altar
and a cross, and all this not by commandment but by the people’s
devotion.’ The incumbent rector, Thomas Sowdley, had obtained a licence
to marry during the reign of Edward VI and was deprived of his living as
a result. In the same month as the coronation of Mary I, John Strype
recorded “Another priest called sir Tho. Snowdel, [i.e. Sowdley]whom
they nicknamed Parson Chicken, was carted through Cheapside, for
assoiling an old acquaintance of his in a ditch in Finsbury field; and
was at that riding saluted with chamber-pots and rotten eggs”.
Sowdley regained his living on the accession of Elizabeth I.
A century later, the living of St. Nicholas Cole Abbey was owned
by Colonel Francis Hacker, a Puritan who commanded the execution detail
of Charles I.
The church was destroyed in the Great Fire. Charles II promised
the site to the Lutheran community but lobbying prevented this from
being granted and the parish was combined with that of St Nicholas Olave,
a nearby church also destroyed but not rebuilt. The church was rebuilt
between 1672 and 1678 at a cost of £5042. Included in the building
accounts are the items: ‘Dinner for Dr Wren and other Company - £2 14s
0d’ and ‘Half a pint of canary for Dr Wren’s coachmen’ – 6d.
It was the first church of the fifty-one to be rebuilt.
In 1737, the early Methodist leader George Whitefield preached a
sermon on ‘Profane swearing in church’ at St. Nicholas Cole Abbey.
The post-Fire church was built with its facade to the north on
what was then Fish Street (and what is now Distaff Lane) and the east on
Old Fish Street Hill. Victorian urban redevelopment changed the local
street plan and the south wall of the church, instead of being hemmed in
by buildings now overlooked the newly built Queen Victoria Street. This
necessitated a reordering of the church, in 1874, with windows being
opened up to the south and the main doorway moving from the northwest
tower to the south.
Smoke generated by underground trains so blackened the exterior
that in the late 19th century, the church became known as “St. Nicholas
Cole Hole Abbey”.
In May 1881, church attendance under the Reverend H Stebbing was
down to one man and one woman. Then, in 1883, Henry Shuttleworth was
appointed rector, a position he held until 1900. Shuttleworth was a
Christian Socialist who installed a bar, established a prodigious
musical programme and made the church a centre for debate. This had an
effect, as by 1891 the St. Nicholas Cole Abbey had the largest
congregation of any City church, numbering up to 450 worshippers on a
Sunday evening. Recorded a contemporary vicar, "In St. Nicholas Cole
Abbey there is good preaching and divine worship is also carried out in
the most reverential manner. In other City churches...as a rule, they
[the rectors] are themselves the most wretched preachers and bad
readers." (Clarke, 1898:434)
On May 10 1941, London suffered its worst air raid during the
entire War, with 1,436 people killed and several major buildings
destroyed or severely damaged. Among them was St. Nicholas Cole Abbey.
The church remained a shell until restored under Arthur Bailey and
reconsecrated in 1962.
The parish was combined with that of St. Andrew-by-the-Wardrobe.
St. Nicholas Cole Abbey became the headquarters of the Diocesan Council
for Mission and Unity. Between 1982 and 2003, the church was leased to
the Free Church of Scotland (Presbyterian)[1].
In 2006, the Church of England announced that St. Nicholas Cole
Abbey would become a national centre for Religious Education. The Culham
Institute, a Church of England educational body which promotes and
develops RE in schools, will move its headquarters to St. Nicholas Cole
Abbey from Oxford.
Exterior
The church is a stone box with quoins. Some medieval
work remains in the south and west walls, the latter of which is of
brick and rubble. On top of the body of the church is a balustrade. The
windows are arched with square brackets – a favourite device of Wren[2].
On the northwestern corner of the church is a square tower
surmounted by a lead spire in the shape of an upside down octagonal
trumpet. On each corner of the tower is a small flaming urn. The spire
has two rows of lunettes and a small balcony near the top, resembling a
crowsnest. At the very top is a vane in the shape of a three-masted
barque in the round. This came from St Michael Queenhithe (demolished
1876) and was added to the apire in 1962. The pre-War vane was in the
shape of a pennant with 4 S shapes back to back.
The tower is 135 ft tall and contains one bell.
Interior
The east wall is dominated by three stained glass
windows designed by Keith New, who also helped design the stained glass
windows of Coventry Cathedral. They are reminiscent of the work of Marc
Chagall. They replace windows designed by Edward Burne-Jones which were
destroyed in 1941. From left to right they depict St. Nicholas Cole
Abbey as the centre of the world with crosses pointing to the four
corners of the world; the Rock of Christ with the ark (representing the
church) on four rivers (representing the Gospels); seven lamps,
representing the extension of the church around the world.
Swags have been recreated over the east windows. The interior is
otherwise plain, other than Corinthian pilasters. In the vestry to the
north west is crazy paving made from shattered tombstones.
Surviving from the 17th century are the carved pulpit, (although
on a modern base and lacking its tester), the font cover, part of the
communion rail, parts of the original Wren era reredos, now installed on
the south wall and the Charles II Coat of Arms
Behind a panel near the south door is a medieval stone head found
during the restoration.
The organ was built by Noel Mander for the restored church.
In 2006, as part of the redevelopment of the church as a centre
for Religious Education, it was announced that a free-standing glass box
will be built inside the shell of the church.
St. Nicholas Cole Abbey in culture
Henry Shuttleworth is the model for James Morrell, the
Socialist preacher in George Bernard Shaw’s 1898 play Candida.
The gutted shell of St. Nicholas Cole Abbey is the scene of the
gold bullion heist in the 1951 Ealing Comedy The Lavender Hill Mob
The church features in Iris Murdoch’s first novel Under the Net,
published in 1954
St. Nicholas Cole Abbey was used as a location in 1968 Doctor Who
serial The Invasion.
References
^ "London:the City Churches” Pevsner,N/Bradley,S New
Haven, Yale, 1998 ISBN 0300096550
^ "The City of London Churches" Betjeman,J Andover, Pikin, 1967
ISBN 0853721122
Jeffery, Paul. The city churches of Sir Christopher Wren,
Hambledon Press, 1996
Cobb,Gerald. London city churches, B T Batsford Ltd., 1977
Middleton, Paul & Hatts, Leigh. London city churches, Bankside
Press, 2003
Bradley, Simon & Pevsner, Nikolaus. The buildings of England:
London 1: The city of London, Penguin Books 1997
Weinreb, Ben & Hibbert, Christopher (eds.) . The London
encyclopedia, Macmillan, 1992
Clarke, Rev. Henry. The city churches, Simpkin, Marshall, Kent &
Co., 1898
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links
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http://london.lovesguide.com/nicholas_cole.htm
http://www.culham.ac.uk/coleabbey/ |
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www.essential-architecture.com
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