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Essential
Architecture- London
Piccadilly Circus |
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architect
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John Nash |
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location
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connects Regent Street with the major
shopping street of Piccadilly (the "circus" refers to "circular open space
at a street junction"), it now links directly to the theatres on Shaftesbury
Avenue as well as the Haymarket, Coventry Street (onwards to Leicester
Square) and Glasshouse Street. |
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date
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1819 |
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style
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Regency |
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construction
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stone |
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type
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Outdoor space |
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Piccadilly Circus is a famous traffic intersection and public space of
London's West End in the City of Westminster. The Circus is close to
major shopping and entertainment areas in a central location at the
heart of the West End. Its status as a major traffic intersection has
made Piccadilly Circus a busy meeting point and a tourist attraction in
its own right.
The Circus is particularly know for its video display and neon
signs mounted on the corner building on the northern side, as well as
the Shaftesbury memorial fountain and statue known as 'Eros' (sometimes
called 'The Angel of Christian Charity', which would be better
translated as 'Agape', but formally 'Anteros' - see below). It is
surrounded by several noted buildings, including the London Pavilion and
Criterion Theatre. Directly underneath the plaza is the London
Underground station Piccadilly Circus.
History
Piccadilly Circus in 1896, with a view towards Leicester Square
via Coventry Street. London Pavilion may be seen on the right, and the
Shaftesbury memorial fountain on the left.
Piccadilly Circus connects to Piccadilly, a thoroughfare whose
name first appeared in 1626 as Pickadilly Hall, named after a house
belonging to one Robert Baker, a tailor famous for selling piccadills or
piccadillies, a term used for various kinds of collars. The street was
known as Portugal Street in 1692 in honour of Catherine of Braganza, the
queen consort of King Charles II of England, but was known as Piccadilly
by 1743. Piccadilly Circus was created in 1819, at the junction with
Regent Street, which was then being built under the planning of John
Nash on the site of a house and garden belonging to a Lady Hutton. The
circus lost its circular form in 1886 with the construction of
Shaftesbury Avenue.
The junction has been a very busy traffic interchange since
construction, as it lies at the centre of Theatreland and handles exit
traffic from Piccadilly, which Charles C. B. Dickens, son of Charles
Dickens, described as "the great thoroughfare leading from the Haymarket
and Regent-street westward to Hyde Park-corner" and "the nearest
approach to the Parisian boulevard of which London can boast."
The Piccadilly Circus tube station was opened 10 March 1906 on
the Bakerloo Line, and on the Piccadilly Line in December of that year.
In 1928, the station was extensively rebuilt to handle an increase in
traffic.
The intersection's first electric advertisements appeared in
1910, and from 1923 electric billboards were set up on the facade of the
London Pavilion. Traffic lights were first installed in August 3, 1926
at the junction.
At the start of the 1960s, it was determined that the Circus
needed to be redeveloped to allow for greater traffic flow. In 1962,
Lord Holford presented a plan which would have created a "double-decker"
Piccadilly Circus, with a new pedestrian concourse above the
ground-level traffic. This concept was kept alive throughout the rest of
60s, before eventually being killed by Sir Keith Joseph and Ernest
Marples in 1972; the key reason given was that Holford's scheme only
allowed for a 20% increase in traffic, and the Government required 50%.
The Holford plan is referenced in the short-form documentary film
"Goodbye, Piccadilly", produced by the Rank Organisation in 1967.
Piccadilly Circus has since escaped major redevelopment, apart from
extensive ground-level pedestrianisation around its south side in the
1980s.
The Shaftesbury Memorial Fountain in Piccadilly Circus was
erected in 1893, to commemorate the philanthropic works of Anthony
Ashley Cooper, 7th Earl of Shaftesbury. During the Second World War, the
statue atop the Shaftesbury memorial fountain, The Angel of Christian
Charity, was removed, and was replaced by advertising hoardings. It was
returned in 1948. When the circus underwent reconstruction work in the
late 1980s, the entire fountain was moved from the centre of the
junction at the beginning of Shaftesbury Avenue to its present position
at the southwestern corner.
Location and sights
Piccadilly Circus is surrounded by several major tourist
attractions, including the Shaftesbury Memorial, Criterion Theatre,
London Pavilion and several major retail stores.

Neon signs and the Coca-Cola display
Piccadilly Circus used to be surrounded by illuminated
advertising hoardings on buildings since the early 1900s, but only one
building now carries them, namely the one in the northwestern corner,
between Shaftesbury Avenue and Glasshouse Street. The site is unnamed
(usually referred to as Monico after the Café Monico which used to be on
the site); its addresses are 44/48 Regent Street, 1/6 Sherwood Street,
17/22 Denman Street and 1/17 Shaftesbury Avenue, and has been owned by
property investor Land Securities Group since the 1970s.
The earliest signs used incandescent light bulbs, these were
replaced with neon lamps, as well as moving signs (there was a large
Guinness clock at one time). Briefly digital projectors were used for
the Coke sign, while the early 2000s have seen a gradual move to LED
displays. The number of signs has reduced over the years as the rental
costs have increased.
As of 2005, the site has five illuminated advertising screens
above three large retail units, facing Piccadilly Circus on the north
side, occupied by Boots, Burger King and GAP and a mix of smaller
retail, restaurant and office premises fronting the other streets. In
September 2003, Coca Cola replaced its old illuminated board and the
site formally occupied by Nescafé with a state-of-the-art LED video
display that curves round with the building. Below the Coca Cola sign,
are Sanyo and TDK, together with the squarish McDonald's LED. On the
left is the Samsung board, being upgraded from neon to LED in 2005.
Vodafone also has a sign installed on the roof of Coventry House
facing Piccadilly Circus. In addition to the logo of the company, the
sign displays personal messages that can be entered on a Vodafone
website and displayed at a certain time and date.
Shaftesbury Memorial and Eros

Piccadilly Circus memorial fountain, atop The Angel of Christian
Charity, popularly referred to as Eros, one of the first statues to be
cast in aluminium
At the south-western side of the Circus, moved from its original
position in the centre, stands the Shaftesbury Monument memorial
fountain, erected in 1892-1893 to commemorate the philanthropic works of
Lord Shaftesbury. It is topped by Alfred Gilbert's winged nude statue,
sometimes known as The Angel of Christian Charity. It is popularly known
as Eros after the mythical Greek God of Love, although he is intended to
be Eros' twin Anteros. The statue has become a London icon, and a
graphical illustration of the statue is used as the symbol of the
Evening Standard newspaper and appears on its masthead.
The use of a nude figure on a public monument was controversial
at the time of its construction, but it was generally well-received by
the public. The Magazine of Art described it as, "...a striking contrast
to the dull ugliness of the generality of our street sculpture, ... a
work which, while beautifying one of our hitherto desolate open spaces,
should do much towards the elevation of public taste in the direction of
decorative sculpture, and serve freedom for the metropolis from any
further additions of the old order of monumental monstrosities."'
Technologically ground-breaking at the time, this statue was the
first in the world to be cast in aluminium. The statue originally
pointed its bow to the north, up Shaftesbury Avenue. However, during the
Second World War the statue was removed for safe keeping, and when it
was returned its bow was fixed pointing in to the south, towards Lower
Regent Street.
The winged figure on the fountain is generally called Eros, is
often supposed to be The Angel of Christian Charity, but was intended to
be Anteros, a brother of Eros, and is recorded as such in the records of
Westminster City Council. The sculptor Alfred Gilbert had already
sculpted a statue of Anteros, when commissioned for the Shaftesbury
Memorial Fountain, and chose to reproduce the same subject, who as 'The
God of Selfless Love' was deemed to suitably represent the philanthropic
7th Earl of Shaftesbury. Gilbert described Anteros as portraying
'reflective and mature love, as opposed to Eros or Cupid, the frivolous
tyrant.' The model for the sculpture was a 16-year-old Italian, whose
name appears to have vanished from history. The fountain, when
originally placed, was meant to have Anteros pointing his bow towards
Wimborne Saint Giles in Dorset, which was the Earl's country seat.
When the memorial was unveiled, there were numerous complaints.
Some felt it was sited in a vulgar part of town (the theatre district)
and others felt that it was too sensual as a memorial for a famously
sober and respectable Earl. Some of the objections were tempered by
renaming the statue as The Angel of Christian Charity, which was the
nearest approximation that could be invented in the Christian pantheon
for the role of Anteros in the Greek. But the name never became widely
known, and the original name came back, under the shortened form Eros,
signifying the God of Sensual Love; quite inappropriate to commemorate
the Earl, but just right to signify the carnal neighbourhood of London,
into which Soho had developed.
The iconography deteriorated to the level where the memorial came
to be seen as the lustful, half-naked Eros burying his shaft up
Shaftesbury Avenue, absolutely typifying degenerate Soho. During his
life-time Gilbert had already said of his sculpture 'There is more than
£3,000 worth of copper. take it down, melt it, and turn it into pence
and give it to the unfortunate people who nightly find a resting place
on the Thames Embankment, to the everlasting shame and disgrace of the
greatest metropolis in the world'.
Criterion Theatre
The Criterion Theatre, a grade II* listed building,
stands on the south side of Piccadilly Circus. Apart from the box office
area, the entire theatre, with nearly 600 seats, is underground and is
reached by descending a tiled stairway. Columns are used to support both
the dress circle and the upper circle, restricting the views of many of
the seats inside.
The theatre was designed by Thomas Verity and opened as a theatre
on March 21, 1874, although original plans were for it to become a
concert hall. In 1883 it was forced to close to improve ventilation and
to replace gaslights with electric lights, and was reopened the
following year. The theatre closed in 1989 and was extensively
refurbished, reopening in October 1992.
London Pavilion

On the north-eastern side of the Piccadilly Circus, on the corner
between Shaftesbury Avenue and Coventry Street, is the London Pavilion.
The first building bearing the name was built in 1859, and was a music
hall. In 1885, Shaftesbury Avenue was built through the site of the
Pavilion. A new London Pavilion was constructed, which also served as a
music hall. In 1923, electric billboards were erected on the side of the
building.
Facade of the London Pavilion in 2002
In 1934, the building underwent significant structural
alteration, and was converted into a cinema. In 1986, the building was
rebuilt, preserving the 1885 facade, and converted into a shopping
arcade. In 2000, the building was connected to the neighbouring
Trocadero Centre, and signage on the building was altered in 2003 to
read "London Trocadero." The basement of the building connects with
Piccadilly Circus tube station.
Major shops
The former Tower Records flagship store, now acquired by
Virgin Megastore, can be found at Number 1 Piccadilly, on the west side
between Regent Street and Piccadilly, directly facing Piccadilly Circus.
There is a direct exit to the Underground station on the basement level.
Rival store HMV also has a branch inside the London Trocadero.
Lillywhites is a major retailer of sporting goods located on the
south side, next to the Shaftesbury fountain. It moved to its present
site in 1925.
Underground station and the Piccadilly Line

Piccadilly Circus underground station entrance at 1 Piccadilly.
Criterion Theatre is on the right.
The Piccadilly Circus station on the London Underground is
located directly beneath Piccadilly Circus itself, with entrances at
every corner. It is one of the few stations which have no associated
buildings above ground and is fully underground. It is itself a Grade 2
listed building.
The station is on the Piccadilly Line between Green Park and
Leicester Square, and the Bakerloo Line between Charing Cross and Oxford
Circus.
Metronet, one of the three private operators of the London
Underground under a public-private partnership arrangement, is investing
some £14 million to refurbish Piccadilly Circus station. Works are
scheduled to begin in March 2005 and will be completed in spring 2007.
Major improvements planned include new floor and wall finishes, a new
CCTV system, new help points, a new public address system, new
electronic information displays and clocks, improved platform seating,
waterproofing measures, measures to assist visually impaired passengers
and improved lighting. Escalators will also be replaced.
Piccadilly Circus in popular culture
The phrase "it's like Piccadilly Circus" is commonly
used in the UK to refer to a place or situation which is extremely busy
with people. It has been said that a person who stays long enough at
Piccadilly Circus will eventually bump into everyone they know. In the
United States, this would be the equivalent to "it's like Grand Central
Station." Probably because of this connection, during World War II,
"Piccadilly Circus" was the code name given the Allies' D-Day invasion
fleet's assembly location in the English Channel.
Piccadilly Circus has inspired artists and musicians. Piccadilly
Circus (1912) is the name and subject of a painting by British artist
Charles Ginner, part of the Tate Britain collection. Photographer Paul
McCarthy also has a 320-page two-volume edition of photographs by the
name of Piccadilly Circus.
Piccadilly Circus is the name of Swedish singer Pernilla
Wahlgren's hit song from 1985. Northern Irish punk band Stiff Little
Fingers had a different song of the same name from their 1981 album Go
For It, a true story about a friend of theirs migrating to London to
escape The Troubles of Belfast only to get stabbed by strangers in
Piccadilly Circus. A compilation album from the British pop/rock band
Squeeze released in 1996 was titled Piccadilly Collection and showed a
picture of Piccadilly Circus on its cover.
The Dire Straits song "Wild West End" is about the area around
Piccadilly. The Morrissey song Piccadilly Palare from the album "Bona
Drag" recounts the life of male prostitutes by employing the use of "palare"
(alternatively spelled 'polari'), argot used by this subculture and by
gay men generally. A lost verse: "Around the centre of town/is where I
belong/am I really doing wrong?" Jethro Tull mention Piccadilly Circus
in Mother Goose on Aqualung album: "And a foreign student said to me/was
it really true there are elephants and lions too/in Piccadilly Circus?"
Bob Marley makes mention of Piccadilly Circus in his song "Kinky
Reggae" off of the album Catch A Fire. The Sundays mention Piccadilly
Circus in their song "Hideous Towns" off their 1990 album Reading,
Writing, and Arithmetic.
Stormbreaker, the first novel in the bestselling Alex Rider serie
by Anthony Horowitz, featured many major landmarks in London, one of
them Picadilly Circus. The main characters race down the circus on
horseback.
References
Mills, A. D. Dictionary of London Place Names. Oxford
University Press, 2004. ISBN 0-19-860957-4.
Harris, C. M. What's in a name? The origins of the names of all
stations in current use on the London Underground and Docklands Light
rail with their opening dates. Midas Books and London Transport, fourth
edition, 2001. ISBN 1-85414-241-0.
Lange, D. The Queen's London: A Pictorial and Descriptive Record
of the Streets, Buildings, Parks and Scenery of the Great Metropolis.
Cassell and Company, London, 1896.
Dickens, C. C. B. Dickens's Dictionary of London 1888: An
Unconventional Handbook. 1888, re-printed in 1995 by Old House Books.
ISBN 1-873590-04-0.
Greater London Council, Piccadilly Circus: From Controversy to
Reconstruction. 1980. ISBN 0-7168-1145-6.
Articles
Hadley, P. Piccadilly Circus, How a typical 1906 London
tube station was built, Underground News 412, April 1996.
Jacob, S. Review: Piccadilly Circus, Icon Magazine, November
2003.
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links
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www.essential-architecture.com
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