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Essential
Architecture- London
Priory Church of St Bartholomew the Great |
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architect
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Rahere |
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location
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West Smithfield in the City of London |
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date
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1123 |
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style
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the most significant Norman (Romanesque)
interior in London |
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construction
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stone |
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type
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Church |
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Click thumbs for larger images |
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Interior, the east end: Rahere's tomb to the left, Lady Chapel behind the
altar |
The Priory Church of St Bartholomew-the-Great is an Anglican
church located at West Smithfield in the City of London, founded as an
Augustinian priory in 1123.
History
The church possesses the most significant Norman interior in
London, which once formed the chancel of a much larger monastic church.
It was established in 1123 by one Rahere, a prebendary of St Paul's
Cathedral and later an Augustinian canon, who is said to have erected
the church in gratitude after recovering from a fever. Rahere's
supposedly miraculous recovery contributed to the church becoming known
for its curative powers, with sick people filling its aisles each 24
August, St Bartholomew's Day.
The church was originally part of a priory adjoining St
Bartholomew's Hospital, but while the hospital survived the Dissolution
about half of the priory church was demolished in 1543. The nave of the
church was pulled down (up to the last bay) but the crossing and choir
survive largely intact from the Norman and later periods and continued
in use as the parish church. The entrance to the church from Smithfield
now goes into the churchyard through a tiny surviving fragment of the
west front, which is now surmounted by a half-timbered Tudor building.
From there to the church door, a path leads along roughly where the
south aisle of the nave was. Parts of the cloister also survive and may
be seen from this path, but are not open to the public. Very little
trace survives of the rest of the monastic buildings.
The church escaped the Great Fire of London in 1666, but fell
into disrepair, becoming occupied by squatters in the 18th century. It
was restored and rebuilt by Aston Webb in the late 19th century. During
Canon Edwin Sidney Savage's tenure as Rector the church was further
restored at the cost of more than £60,000. The Lady Chapel at the east
end had been previously used for commercial purposes and it was there
that Benjamin Franklin served a year as journeyman printer. The north
transept had formally been used as blacksmith's forge. The church was
one of relatively few City churches to escape damage during the Second
World War. Having been much used, abused and restored over the years the
building now presents an interesting and impressive collection of
architectures.
The church's name (sometimes shortened to "Great St Barts") is
owed to the fact that it is one of two, nearly neighbouring, churches
both linked with the hospital and priory and both dedicated to St
Bartholomew. The other, inside the hospital precinct, is considerably
smaller (hence its naming as St Bartholomew-the-Less), less
architecturally distinguished, and of less obvious historical
importance.
William Hogarth was baptised in St Bartholomew's Church in 1697.
Since November 2007, St Bartholomew-the-Great is it the first
parish church in Britain to charge an entrance fee for tourists.
Other connections
Great St Barts church was the location of the fourth
wedding in the film Four Weddings and a Funeral and of some scenes in
Shakespeare in Love.
The church also housed the chapel of the Imperial Society of
Knights Bachelor until 2005.
St Bartholomew-the-Great is the adopted church of the Worshipful
Company of Butchers and is the setting for that Livery Company's annual
Church Service.
References
^ "The City of London Churches" Betjeman,J Andover,
Pikin, 1967 ISBN 0853721122
^ "London:the City Churches" Pevsner,N/Bradley,S : New Haven,
Yale, 1998 ISBN 0300096550
^ Samuel Pepys-The Shorter Pepys Latham,R(Ed) p484:
Harmondsworth,1985 ISBN 0140094180
^ Patrick Sawer (November 18, 2007). "'Four Weddings' church to
charge". Telegraph. Retrieved on 2007-11-20.
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Priory Church of St Bartholomew the Great, West Smithfield, London
St Bartholomew the Great is located adjacent to Smithfield
Market, St Bartholomew's Hospital, and the Church of St Bartholomew the
Less. London's oldest parish church and its most complete Norman, or
Romanesque, church, St Bartholomew the Great is a real treasure. Except
for the chapel in the Tower of London, it is the city's oldest place of
worship.
The priory and hospital were founded in 1123 by Rahere, a
courtier of Henry I, in gratitude for being healed of fever while on
pilgrimage to Rome. The priory was established as an Augustinian
community with Rahere as the first prior. Following his death in 1144,
he was buried in the church; his tomb was re-built with an effigy in the
north side of the sanctuary in 1405.
Although never wealthy, the priory was at one time the largest in
London and its church was larger than many cathedrals. When the priory
was dissolved in 1539 by Henry VIII, its outer buildings were destroyed.
The nave was also demolished up to the transept, leaving only the choir
and sanctuary to serve as a parish church. The congregation to this day
worships sitting collegiate-style in the choir stalls.
Other parts of the church were turned to other uses. The Lady
Chapel was used for private housing, then as a print shop (where
Benjamin Franklin worked in 1725), and finally as a fringe factory; it
was re-built in 1894. The North Transept of the church, also restored in
the 1890s, had been turned into a blacksmith's forge.
The photo at right shows the Tudor gatehouse built over the
church's Norman archway. Dating from 1595, it is one of the earliest
surviving Elizabethan timber-frame house fronts in London. The
13th-century stone archway below formerly served as an entrance to the
nave. The old churchyard would have extended well out into Smithfield.
Since the Reformation, however, one enters the churchyard, shown
at left, after passing beneath the gatehouse. (That's me on the bench,
enjoying the fine day.) The present west front was added after the
demolition of the nave and is now the entrance into the church from
Smithfield. The path to the door lies in the approximate position of the
former south aisle.
The bricks on the west front show a variety of styles and colours
due to restorations and additions over the centuries. The bricks on the
left are 12th-century; most of the rest date from the extensive late
19th-century restoration.
This is the view one sees upon entering from the west. Often
called an "atmospheric" church, it has none of the clean lines or airy
lightness of Wren's architectural creations (e.g., St Stephen Walbrook).
There are huge Romanesque columns with fine Norman detailing, a
triforium gallery above and a clerestory on top. Although the interior
tends to be dark, it has dignity and simple beauty, especially when
sunlight shines through the upper windows, as in this photo.
The layout is at first disorienting because the entrance leads
directly into the south transept with the arches of the crossing on the
left. The floor plan focuses on the high altar. The six silver
candlesticks and silver cross were made in 1934. The tomb of the
priory's founder Rahere is placed in the sanctuary wall to the left
(north) of the altar. On the right of the altar almost opposite Rahere's
tomb on the second level an oriel window, known as Prior Bolton's
Window, can be seen overlooking the choir. Prior William Bolton
(1505-32), whose lodgings were in this part of the church, had the
window installed to enable him to view the Mass at the high altar and
the monks in their stalls.
The photo at left shows the chapel dedicated to the Blessed
Virgin Mary, found at the east end of the sanctuary. This is the third
Lady Chapel on the site: the first was built in the 12th century, the
second in the 14th, and this one was dedicated in 1897. In 1894, the
area was largely demolished, leaving only the medieval buttresses,
before the present chapel was built. The painting of the Madonna and
Child was done in 1998 by the Spanish artist Alfredo Roldan.
There are many monuments throughout the church. This photo shows
the largest one, located in the south aisle: the Elizabethan tomb of Sir
Walter and Lady Mildmay. The Latin inscription reads, "Death is gain to
us. Here lies Walter Mildmay, knight, and Mary his wife. He died on the
last day of May 1589; she on the 16th day of March 1576. They left two
sons and three daughters. He founded Emmanuel College, Cambridge. He
died Chancellor and sub-treasurer of the Exchequer, and a member of Her
Majesty's Privy Council." Emmanuel College was created to train clergy
for the newly reformed Church of England. It became a centre of Puritan
scholarship and evangelical piety. It was said that Queen Elizabeth did
not greatly favour Sir Walter because of his suspected Puritan
sympathies. (But that did not stop him from rising to become her
Chancellor of the Exchequer.)
Soon after the priory first opened, a cloth fair spontaneously
sprang up in the churchyard. Held annually on St Bartholomew's Day, the
fair was very important to merchants, but along with it developed a
myriad of crowd-pleasing entertainments–stalls, plays, freak shows,
music, and revelry. It became known as Bartholomew Fair, a very popular
public holiday until it was closed down in 1855.
The street running along the north side of the church is Cloth
Fair, named after the event held in the churchyard. The door shown here,
facing Cloth Fair, is the church's other main entrance. There are
indications that Protestant martyrs burned at the stake during the reign
of Bloody Mary were executed here, facing the church door.
One of the buildings in Cloth Fair is believed to London's oldest
residential home.
The church has been used as a location for several films, most
famously, the final church in Four Weddings and a Funeral.
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links
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www.essential-architecture.com
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